One error in this instructable: In part 8 of step 2 it says to choose the Melzi COM port, but it should say to choose the Arduino port. I'd also recommend a new 10 pin cable because I found it using a new 10 pin cable easier than to try to reuse the one already in the system. For our purposes we'll assume you'll want to keep the original mainboard. You can try to use the existing 10 pin cable but I wanted to keep it as-is in case I wanted to go back to stock. HBP thermistor for I3 V2.1, 1.2m. I'd suggest watching Hi, I tried all you steps, but when trying to load the boot loader, I get these errors: avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00, avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding, Reply To use sensor based leveling you'll need a sensor. È una stampante 3D FFF plug & play di buon valore. Is there anyway to undo it once its done or is it permanent? Sold Out. Guess the formating FW delete important files and the DWIN.SET didn't have this lost files in it. Acquista questa stampante 3D se hai bisogno di un dispositivo di livellamento automatico. 3. Some people will completely change out the mainboard, and therefore the firmware, to add bed leveling support. This firmware is pretty standard, no real reason to go back. Don’t remove the middle four on the bottom as these hold the PSU in place. 4 – Riavviare il programma. Questa stampante 3D si basa su una struttura in metallo tipo Prusa i3 ed è dotata di un singolo estrusore MK10 di … in order to program the duplicator you have to remove the front display because the 6 pin cable cannot plug in with the display cable in the way. Click the Upload button to build and upload the firmware. Connect the power and signal BLTouch wires to the male 10 pin header as shown below. Given its 4-point bed leveling, it can be a challenge to level. The remaining 9 pins should stay connected to the LCD but the GND and 5V pins need to also be connected to the BLTouch. 3D printing is a frustrating endeavour at times, and you want to put more of your energy into getting results than wanting to throw your machine out of the nearest exit. Once the bootloader is flashed you can disconnect the Uno, it won't be used anymore. This ensures the rotary encoder on the box is nice and smooth - In the configuration.h file, change “#define UI_ENCODER_SPEED 1” to “#define UI_ENCODER_SPEED 2” and “#define UI_KEY_BOUNCETIME 10” to “#define UI_KEY_BOUNCETIME 20”. After an initial procedure you won't need the Arduino any more. If you deploy the probe with M280 P0 S10 and lower the Z axis to where it almost touches the bed you can place a sticky note or piece of tape on the bed to mark the position. If you get the error “avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00” you haven’t burned the bootloader correctly so go back and try again. You can ignore the part about the Repetier, we'll be using Marlin. These commands assume that you've got the X and Y offsets set correctly and you have Z_SAFE_HOMING defined (it is in the same configuration file). You'll have to run a couple GCODE commands, adjust the Configuration.h files and reflash your printer. then you need to change one of the jumpers inside so the CPU is powered from the programming cable, then you can download some … Make sure to connect the cable so that the wire with the notch connects to the A4 pin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAKyZd63_ns and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8_ldMckGDE. b. Just make sure that any home commands (G28) happen before the G29. I tried a few different ones found here but they all appeared to be remixed off MK8/9 designs with some flaws - the filament guide hole was not aligned properly and or the extruder plate lever base was not thick enough resulting in too much slop in the extruder lever. I’ve used an Arduino Duemilanove but you can use an Uno (I am not sure about Nano and other types). # define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME " Wanhao i3 " // Define this to set a unique identifier for this printer, (Used by some programs to differentiate between machines) // … The side of the cable with the notch taken out will be connected to the LCD so that the A4 pin is no longer connected to the speaker. 3 years ago. Hence upgrading the firmware was the next best thing which required no additional cost for me. An Arduino Uno works well for this purpose and many people already have one. What are the top added setting options available with this? Connect the ISP programmer/Arudino to your computer. This will require either 6-pin headers or some sort of make-shift situation like I have done (wires + solder + Arduino headers). It took me 3 days and many print failures to set everything right without sacrificing mesh bed leveling and s-curve. The original firmware really is just repetier firmware, not really customised. Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.0 & i3 Plus - 3D Printer Parts – X/Y/E Axis Stepper Motor $ 35.95 $ 29.95. After reading about thermal protection and how wanhao i3 default firmware handles thermistor failures I decided to find a modern alternative for original repetier firmware. This meant that thermistors that rely on the threaded cavity to be placed into the heatblock, like the stock Wanhao one, cannot be used without modification of the block which I wasn't keen on. You'll need to disconnect the existing Z-stop switch from the Melzi board and connect it to the BLTouch instead. Based on Marlin Firmware 1.1.9. This is called a bootloader. 4. Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2 3D Printer: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific ... -The motherboard does not come with a bootloader, this makes it very hard to upgrade/change firmware-The electronics box wire harness is too short All of the design issues listed can be fixed with aftermarket mods. So do you know if this is the newest version of the firmware that is available? I spent the time to disconnect the flexible cable housing and run the wires inside of the housing with the other wires. If you connect this cable backwards the BLTouch will not function. You won't want to automatically level the bed with manual probing before each print but manual probing can still be beneficial. Before flashing new firmware to the Melzi mainboard you'll need to upload a bootloader to it. When I am printing my skirt, if I feel it's too close/far from the bed, I can just adjust the Z-height on the fly. The other female end of the cable connects to the EXT header on the Melzi mainboard. You'll need to print out a BLTouch mount from Thingverse and will need some M3 bolts and nuts for the mount you choose. I purchased an e3d hotend and due to it using a different thermistor, the stock firmware that came with the Wanhao i3 (v2.0/2.1) won't be able to read the thermistor temperature correctly. I adjusted it because it didn't fit my i3 Plus. Amazon.com: [Gulfcoast Robotics] Uno Bootloader Flashing Kit for Creality Ender-3, Ender-5, CR-10, Wanhao Duplicator i3 and More: Industrial & Scientific Sale. For example my LCD was garbled until adjust the ST7920_DELAY values to those found in the chasetec repo. c. This removes all those stupid beep sounds - In the ui.cpp find and replace “BEEP_SHORT “ with “//BEEP_SHORT”. The official instructions say to remove (break off) the C7 capacitor for versions 3+ of the BLTouch. Even from the one you linked: These also allow you to flash the bootloader using an appropriate programmer. There might be some hot glue holding the connector on. The Sanguino is basically a slightly more powerful Arduino with more pins and memory. Now we need to burn the bootloader to the Melzi. If you don't have one you can either buy one for around $20 or borrow one from a friend. This method uses a sensor to measure the distance between the bed and the nozzle and can optionally be added to the start of every print so that you get a great first layer every time even if your bed shifts. I'm getting the same response and can't seem to find a fix for it. However, if you have had no print issues it doesn't seem to customised that much. 4. You won’t need the Arduino anymore so you can disconnect this too. If you flash the BLTouch configuration before wiring in your BLTouch you'll hear persistent fast beeping. I think the termistor settings are off. X-Axis Levelling – Ensure your X-Axis is level otherwise you are going to have a hard time. With regards. 3D Printed Tardis with Arduino Lights and Sounds; Anet A8 Review – Budget ($200 or less!) I changed these two lines in Configuration.h: #define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 97#define HEATED_BED_SENSOR_TYPE 97. Yo… Use James' and Jetguy's version if you're worried, down the bottom of the page http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/part-specifications/. I used version 1.19.1. For example, many people upgrade the Y carriage plate to a thicker one because plate included in with the printer is known to warp causing the bed to be difficult to level. So if you didn't want to mess with the firmware you could just use the thermistor that came with the Wanhao ? PRINT YOUR MOUNT BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO WIRE IN YOUR BLTOUCH. In Australia the printer is sold as a Cocoon Create. Note di installazione traduzione ed uso di Wanhao Maker. With this form of leveling the bed does not have to be level. Instead a probe is used to obtain the bed height at a sampling of points. These pillarscan be used as and when needed to help you ensure your X is level before doing y… Double-click on the Marlin.ino file to open Marlin in the Arduino IDE. Adding any of the bed leveling methods to the i3 will require you to replace the firmware on your printer. Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus - i3 mini 3D Printer Parts - filament cooling fan 40*10mm, 24V, cable 15cm $ 14.99 $ 11.99. You have to open the control box, unplug the LCD ribbon cable, only because it blocks the ICSP (In Circuit Serial Programming) header pins. Hello from India. I started with the Marlin default Configuration.h and made i3 specific changes. Add to wishlist Quick View. Now on the Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2.1 there are 2 empty spaces on the power supply, 1 COM and 1 +V. Given its 4-point bed leveling, it can be a challenge to level. The first thing you are going to want to do is make your print success rate go up. Tenlacum - 10 ugelli per estrusore MK10 M7 per stampante 3D Wanhao Dupicator D4/I3/Dremel Makerbot 5 diverse dimensioni 0,2 mm, 0,3 mm, 0,4 mm, 0,6 mm, 0,8 mm (ogni dimensione 2 … Basically what you need to do is a 2-step process. A 10 pin male cable header will be needed to wire in the sensor to the motherboard. In particolare vanno elogiate caratteristiche quali la flessibilità e la versatilità di utilizzo , che ben si bilanciano con la facilità di utilizzo anche per un utente non esperto. Wanhao GAOOSO 3D Printer FEP Membrane GR1 FEP Film, 0.15mm*220mm*160mm Disconnect the printer power supply from the back. To get the printer to show as a COM port you may have to install the drivers from https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm if you have not previously done so. In the Arduino IDE, open File, select Preferences, in the Additional Boards Manager URLs field add https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Lauszus/Sanguino/master/package_lauszus_sanguino_index.json and press the OK button. 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